Archive for April 13th, 2010

Fruits of Hiva Oa

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

There is more fruit per square foot in Hiva Oa than any place we’ve ever seen. But it is not for sale and requires a significant investment in time and energy. This was not unexpected and we set off into the jungle full of gear and cunning plans, stopping along the way to look at flowers…

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And feed horses

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The highest expenditure of effort for food was tied between coconuts and bananas. We started with a heaving line and monkey’s fist. This eventually worked, but not nearly as well as the 20 ft 1×1 that someone had thoughtfully left by the side of the path for us to use.


Getting them down is really just half the fun


Opening them up is the really dangerous part


We tied our machete to a long stick and eventually cut down a fine brace of bananas.












S shook all the papaya trees she could find and also collected a bunch of limes.  She learned the hard way that lime trees have some nasty thorns.  We snagged a breadfuit from a parking lot.

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Mangoes are the holy grail because they are incredibly good. There are huge mango trees all over the village and the primary recipients are 1,000’s of feral chickens that roam the island, continually crossing all the roads (really!).

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K was indignant that he was out-foraged by these chickens and it only got worse when a golden 3 lb mango fell out of a tree a smacked onto the sidewalk 5 feet in front of him.  We almost cried when we saw it.

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We did find a slightly less damaged street mango that turned out to be most delicious. For as we all know, there is no mango sweeter than a free street mango.

We’ll be working hard for this fruit in the weeks ahead in spite of our cafe-lifestyle background, mostly because we can’t afford the insanely priced local cafe lifestyle, however relaxing it might be.  Here’s what $13 (U.S.) worth of Schmidt’s-like beer looks like.

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09°48.22’S 139°02.41’W 10-Apr-11 12:30 PDT


Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

We were lucky to just see the islands in the evening before standing off to wait for sunrise.

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S sussed out the hole in the mountains leading into a hidden bay.

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And when the sun came out we found ourselves in the most beautiful of anchorages.

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All fun was suspended for the following 24 hours as we force marched into town a couple of miles away and caught up on 3 weeks of housekeeping.


It was hard work but a grand location to be working outside.


We really needed a bigger boat for the required miles of clothes lines.


09°48.22’S 139°01.93’W 10-Apr-11 11:30 PDT

Marquesas Transit

Tuesday, April 13th, 2010

Except for a LOT of water, there really was not much to see between Mexico and the Marquesas but we did take a few pics.

For those of you obsessed with K’s plastic pants we’ll get this right out of the way:

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There are about 3 perspectives on a long crossing with only two people. The on-watch person sits in the stern seat and watches the feet of the off-watch sleeper.

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The off-watch person wakes up and checks on the on-watch person in the stern seat.

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And either person could be found sweating in the nav station hot box, checking the nav software, writing email, or playing electronic mah-jong solitaire.

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Occasionally one of us would make a crazy excursion out on the deck (clipped in, of course).

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Sometimes it got so boring the S would stick her head in a bucket just for fun (or to wash her hair) and K would call her “Ole Bucket Head” (but not to her face).

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We did have a pet booby for several days. We (K) immediately named him Boomby… Boomby Boomrider.

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Boomby would spend hours working on his feathers and then fly around and catch flying fish spooked by our passing. His feathers were a terrible mess for some reason and we were glad he found us 1,000’s of miles form the nearest land.

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He became very comfortable in his spot on the boom and with suprisingly grippy webbed feet could ride the mainsail outhaul line in and out like a moving sidewalk as we reefed and unreefed.  He tried to sit on the solar panels but they were, quite comically, like an ice rink for him, so he resigned himself to his perch on the outhaul.

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We expected to have him forever and told him “we’ll ride together til Kingdom Come” but it was not meant to be and he went about his business one day. 

But we can’t resist one more ridiculous boobie picture:

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We had dozens of flying fish but they don’t make good pets. They’re a lot like Marilyn Monroe because they live their lives like a candle in the waves, never knowing where to jump to when the boat comes by. We would have like to have known them but they were usually all dried up in the morning.  (We got to the point of thinking this was funny sometime during Week 3 at sea.)  This one’s wee, but not even the smallest we one we had.

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There was a small party at the equator, S put on some funny goggles and got out a super hero screaming monkey that K had no idea we had. We all posed with the GPS as proof the we are not “Crowhursting” around in Sequim, photoshopping pictures of the Olympic foothills and posting fake position reports.

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There were many clear nights below the southern sky and a sunset just about every night.

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09°45.58’S 138°43.81’W 10-Apr-10 02:30 PDT